Luxury India

Back in Delhi after a week of luxury, relaxation and calm - basically, all things that are not India.
Laura and I met Jigar after our 20 hr train ride in Delhi, where we moved into a beautiful 4 star hotel for two days, then headed to Jaipur for 2 days, and then spent one day in Agra.

Ok, so I know some of you will probably disapprove of this whole "luxury" traveling, but I like to think of it as another angle to view India from. Actually, coming from the backpacker version to the 4 star version of India is quite a cultural experience (and it was so great staying in quiet rooms and having real showers for a week, I won't lie!).

The deal was that we had a car for us the whole week, which drove us from city to city and took us to all the main sites every day. It was such a strange thing for me - having always relied on rickshaws and public transportation - to all of a sudden be in a huge van, with a/c and more than enough room. At every hotel, our bags were carried in, we were addressed as "sir" and "ma'am" and people seemed to go out of their way to make sure we were happy (which in my case was not an issue, since I have the lowest of standards these days). We stayed in gorgeous heritage hotels with peacocks scampering around the grounds, and with beautiful pools with flower mosaic patterns in the bottom. Breakfasts were amazing - fresh fruits and fruit juices and eggs and all the good food you could eat. We slept in four poster beds, were handed wreaths of flowers when we arrived, and had poolside entrances.

All in all, it was a surreal experience. How can you compare this India with the India of 100 rupee rooms, bucket showers and rats scurrying under the beds? Our hotels were filled with (mostly elderly) foreign couples, and those who want to see the beautiful sites of India without dealing with the hassle of India. In short, without really experiencing India.
Unfortunately, it's an easy illusion to sink into. After a week of being catered to, sleeping in quiet, dark, clean rooms, it's difficult to throw yourself back into the real world. Part of me understands how much easier it is to do Resort India - you are inevitably above and beyond the dirtiness and noise and uncomfortable parts of traveling here - but it is so unbelievably different from what I've experienced so far. I won't deny that I loved it - I would never be able to travel like that in most places of the world - but it's such a sheltered way to travel.

I've already talked about Delhi and Jaipur - but Agra needs to be described. I initially thought that I would bypass the Taj Mahal (so cliche, after all!) and everyone's seen it in pictures thousands of times. However, every Indian person I met was shocked and horrified when I explained my thoughts to them, and I thought I should give it a go.
With a whopping 750 rupee entrance (the most expensive site in India) I was on the verge of re-thinking my decision (thankfully Laura and Jigar were there so I really couldn't skip out on Agra). The free water bottle didn't seem like a good enough recompense either...

But how can I describe the Taj Mahal? To quote Wordsworth (thank you Mr. Roberts and IB English!) I can only describe it as sublime. It is, by far, one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen in my life - pictures do not even begin to do it justice. Perhaps it is also the story of the Shah and how he built it in memory of his wife, but there is an aura, a feeling of reverence and sanctity about it. As I saw it for the first time, through the arch of the entrance gate, I felt a shock - as if a curtain was pulled up, and something you hadn't expected to see was behind it. It is one of those places that you can't stop taking pictures of - I felt like my pictures weren't doing it justice, or that I kept needing to capture it one last time, even though every picture (in retrospect) looks more or less the same. As I was walking away from it, I had to resist the urge to walk backwards and keep my eyes on it the whole way.
There's a reason that it's the most visited monument in India - but it's something you only realize when you're standing there, trying to fathom how beautiful it is. Easily worth the entrance fee - though if it had been cheaper I wouldn't have hesitated to come back early the next morning and see it during the sunrise.

Now, I'm back in Delhi. I've met the other two new volunteers, and tonight we head of to Jodhpur (back in Rajasthan) for a two day excursion before going back to Udaipur. I'm excited and relieved to be going back - I'm ready to settle my bags down again for a little bit, and I've missed Udaipur. My first day of teaching is Monday, and it looks like I'll be working with 2nd graders. But I'll keep you all posted as I get settled in - so far, so good though.

Otherwise, all is well. No more sickness (knock on wood!) or other crises. What can I say? I guess it just takes time for India to grow on you :)
Miss you all!